Applecross – More than an Inn

There are a few places in this world I think of as home and Applecross is at the top of the list.  So it was a thrill to take Bessie over the famous Bealach na Bà, the imposing mountain pass and winding single track road that separates Applecross from the rest of the world.  To meet a vehicle on the road is bad enough in a car but when driving a large van the prospect is daunting.  No matter how many times I go there my heart always lifts at the first sight of Applecross Bay.

The famous Bealach na Bà

 We owned a house on the peninsula, in the small hamlet of Toscaig, between 2003 and 2006 and although it was hard work to maintain, these were some of my happiest and most inspirational years.   So it was no surprise we headed to Toscaig as soon as we arrived.  

As we drove to the pier, I spotted all the new developments and was pleased to note nothing spoiled.  We were delighted to see our old house looking well cared for.  We never seemed to find the time to give the old croft house the care it required.    At the pier changes were few and for the better.  New barriers had replaced the rotting timbers.  The oystercatchers were still presiding over the shoreline; seals nosied around the pier; it was raining – no, not much changes.

I heard a cuckoo, but Colin couldn’t.  The cuckoo is the overriding audio from our time there, could I be imagining it for old time sake?

The road north with Raasay in the background

As we sat down to our dinner of scallops and Stornoway Black Pudding we spotted our past neighbour, Robert, skilfully bring his yacht to anchor in Toscaig Loch.  He had sailed over and back to Broadford, Skye, for his weekly shop, as you do.   We caught up on all the Tosciag gossip while he admired Bessie and pondered swapping the boat for a van.

Next day we drove up to Applecross village.  Wild camping is discouraged on the main bay but we found a good spot on the north side and within easy walking distance to the pub.

The Applecross Inn has always been a popular spot but the good food reviews it has received in recent years along with featuring in the MontyHalls TV show have turned this pub into a mega tourist attraction.   Despite the fame we always receive a great welcome from the owner Judith and when things settle down for a few minutes she joined us to fill us in on the rest of the gossip.  

I was honoured that she, and some of the locals, had read and enjoyed my novel The Incomers.  It’s a bit of a paradox but I felt I belonged.

Our new camping stop was idyllic, with fine views over to Skye and Raasay.

The next day we woke to the sound of many cuckoos - so I hadn't imagined after all.  The weather had cleared and we managed a walk we never did when we stayed here; the ridge above Strath Maol Chalum. It was a steep ascent (and descent) but a fabulous ridge walk along to the high point trig at 626 metres. Amazing views to Skye and Raasay to the west and the Torridon range to the east.

The voice of Sorlie Maclean reciting Hallaig rang in my head as I looked on Raasay’s flat topped Dun Caan, giving me the soundtrack for this trip.  Deer watched us from the hillside as we headed back to the van.  The sun slashed through the darkening clouds giving the Minch dabs of that special light peculiar to this coastline.  At that moment there was no finer place to be.

As a thank you to the bay I did a #2minutebeach clean before we left.  There was surprisingly little rubbish but I left it cleaner than I found it.

On our drive out of Applecross we visited an old friend we heard had been ill. I am pleased to say we found him well on the way to recovery.   It was with joy not sadness that we waved him goodbye in the knowledge that Applecross will always be there for us.

The locally appropriate literature I have chosen for this trip is Calum’s Road, Roger Hutchinson’s inspiring account of the back breaking work of Calum Macleod who, despite being in his fifties and armed with only a pick and wheel barrow, built a stretch of road over the course of ten years to give the inhabitants of a remote hamlet on Raasay access to the rest of the world.  As well as being well written it has a wonderful sense of place and gives the reader an insight into what life is like in remote communities.